Described as pugnacious by many, Box turtles will defend themselves with their strong beaks, while more timid individuals will tightly seal themselves in the shell.
As with all reptile species, children should not handle box turtles to prevent Salmonella infections and to prevent bites. Small fingers and toes resemble a favorite
food of box turtles.
Diet
Animal Items
Never offer scorpions or lightning bugs
| Earthworms |
Slugs |
Snails |
| Isopods (pill bugs) |
Waxworms |
Moths |
| Beetles |
Grasshoppers |
Grubs |
| Raw fish Chunks |
Pinky Mice |
Crickets & Mealworms* |
| Low fat canned dog food |
|
|
Plant Items
| Strawberries |
Raspberries |
Blueberries |
| Prickly Pear Fruit |
|
|
A
diet consisting of a mixture of primarily animal items with occasional
supplementation of plant items is nutritionally complete.
Vitamin supplements are unnecessary, and in fact are often
harmful.
Housing
In order to meet their UV light requirements and maintain
normal light cycles, box turtles are best housed outdoors. Box Turtles are good diggers and will create burrows in your yard. As with desert tortoises, care is
needed to prevent escape. During the summer months additional humidity should be provided. This can be accomplished by planting shrubs that are frequently
watered in the turtle’s habitat. It is important to also provide an insulated shelter for protection from excessive heat or cold. Smaller versions of the desert tortoise
dens can be provided.
A puddle of fresh standing water shallow enough for the box
turtle to walk across should be constantly available in the environment. A planter base or metal trash can lid can be partially buried in the enclosure.
If you need to house your box turtle indoors, a UV light will need to
be provided. A mercury vapor lamp is a good source of additional heat and UVB. Mega Ray at www.reptileUV.com or Power Sun by ZooMed is recommended.
Box Turtles do need to hibernate in the winter months. Similar
to Desert Tortoises, they begin to slow down about mid-September. At this time, your box turtle should be examined by a veterinarian to ensure he is healthy
enough for hibernation. If your turtle shows any symptoms of illness (eye or nasal discharge for example), he should not be hibernated.
If you hibernate your box turtle outside, placing moistened
(but not wet) peat moss, straw or leaf litter into the den will encourage your turtle to burrow and prevent dehydration. Monitoring the den every 2-3 weeks to
ensure your turtle is staying hydrated is also important.
If you need to hibernate indoors, fill a plastic container filled about
2/3rd of the way with straw or moistened leaf litter and place it in a cool room such as a garage. Check on your turtle every 2-3 weeks and soak for 20-30
minutes in tepid water.
Gut-Loading
Gut-loading is the
practice of feeding insects a diet high in calcium, protein, and other
nutrients prior to offering the insects to reptiles and amphibians.
Domestic crickets and meal worms should be fed a diet consisting of
four parts chicken or turkey starter mash and one part calcium carbonate
for two or three days before offering the crickets to your pet. Also,
offer the crickets water in a shallow dish or wet sponge.
Gut-loading beyond 2-3 days is not beneficial, and can actually
decrease the life expectancy of the insects.
Box Turtles and the Law
It is illegal to remove box turtles from the wild or to release captive turtles into the wild.
There is a closed season on ornate box turtles in Arizona.
Per Arizona Commission Order 43, possession of ornate box turtles, Terrapene ornate ornata, is prohibited, except for those legally held prior to January 1,
2005, when season closure went into effect.
© Sonora Veterinary Group, 2011
Free for distribution with proper citation.