The Green Iguana (iguana iguana)  

The Green iguana is the most common of the more than 30 species of iguana seen as companion pets. Native to the tropical regions of Central to South American and the Caribbean, the Green iguana can grow to around 6 feet in length from nose to tip of tail. In captivity the Green Iguana can live around 20 years. Iguanas can be difficult to care due to having very specific humidity, lighting and nutrition requirements.

Diet

A diet consisting of combinations of the above listed foods is nutritionally complete.  Vitamin supplements are unnecessary, and in fact are often harmful.  Water should be available at all times. One fruit-flavored Tums® should be crushed up and sprinkled over greens at least once a week.

Humidity

As a native species of South and Central American forests, green iguanas require a constant humidity between 80%-95%, as well as fresh standing water. Misting systems and bowls of clean water can be used to provide this ambient humidity. Humidity sensors should be placed in a couple of places in the enclosure. Living plants in the enclosure serve to not only maintain ambient humidity, but also provide cover for young iguanas and climbing surfaces.

Due to the need for a high humidity environment, enclosures need to be cleaned daily and all fecal matter removed promptly. Cage substrate will also need to be changed daily. Avoid using cat litter, sand, and all resinous wood (pine, fir, cedar, redwood, eucalyptus) shavings. Resinous woods are toxic to reptiles and small particled substrate such as cat litters or sand can lead to intestinal blockages. Avoid grass pellets as they mildew and grow mold and fungus quickly when subjected to moisture. We recommend using newspapers, Orchid bark or forest mulch as cage substrates.

Lighting

Fluorescent lamp (UV source):  Appropriate lamps are Repti-sun 5.0 (ZooMed), ReptiGlo 5.0 or 8.0 (Exoterra), or ReptaSun 5.0 (Fluker). The lamp should be within 18 inches of the iguana’s body, with no glass or plastic between the iguana and light.  Leave light on 8 to 12 hours per day.

Incandescent lamp (for basking): Light bulb wattage should be adequate to provide a basking temperature of 85-95 degrees F (27 to 35 C).  This temperature should be measured with a thermometer placed directly at the basking site.

Temperature

Daytime ambient temperature (everywhere in the enclosure) should be maintained at 80-90 degrees F. Night time ambient temperature should be maintained at 75 to 82 degrees F. 

Medical Care

Unfortunately the most common reasons iguana owners seek veterinary care for their pets is due to inappropriate or unbalanced diets or improper husbandry. Metabolic bone disease is one of the most common results of poor or unbalanced diets. Feeding foods either low in calcium, high in phosphorus or high in oxalic acid causes calcium to be leached from the iguana’s bones in order to maintain organ function. Broken and/or swollen limbs, misshaped toes, jaw, tail and head are all seen with Metabolic Bone disease. Weakness, reluctance to move or eat, staggering, or any other abnormalities require an examination by a veterinarian. 

Constipation or obstipation (blockage) from ingesting cage litter such as sand, cat litter, wood chips or corn cobs is another common issue. Owners should never try to correct any suspected defecation issues on their own as serious complications and side effects can occur resulting in an emergency visit with an unlikely outcome. Diarrhea from a diet too high in fruit or intestinal parasite infection can lead to dehydration or prolapse. 

Abscesses and burns are common causes of veterinary visits. Any bulges, “soft spots” oozing or open sores should be treated under the supervision of a veterinarian. Frequently check heat lamps, wiring, under-cage heat sources for exposed wires or excess temperature. Seek veterinary care if you suspect your iguana has been burned before the skin becomes infected. Deep burns may need extensive and prolonged care. 

Some skin disorders can be from a green iguana kept in too dry of an environment. Compression on toes or tail from skin not fully shed can be in indication that the humidity level is too low. 

If you suspect your Green Iguana is ill, please call our office right away.  

The Desert Iguana(dipsosaurus dorsalis)  

This heat loving, diurnal reptile, whose natural range is defined by the range of the creosote bush, is found throughout the Sonoran and Mohave deserts. Primarily herbivorous, they will occasionally eat insects or carrion. They do burrow extensively, mostly under the creosote bush, but will use the burrows of other desert dwellers such as the tortoise and foxes. Fully grown, the Desert Iguana is between 10 and 16 inches from nose to tail. Colors range from a pale gray-tan to cream with reticulated dark brown scales down the back. During the breeding season, both sexes will develop a pinkish coloration along their sides and belly.

Diet

Flowering Plants: Unless noted all parts of the plant may be eaten.

Insects: Crickets/Mealworms require "gut loading" prior to being offered as food.

Housing

Unlike Green Iguanas, the Desert Iguana needs horizontal space rather than vertical space. Think Long and Low. An enclosure only needs to be about 18-24 inches tall, but the bigger the better. Desert topsoil is the best substrate to use for these reptiles as well as being easily available here in the southwest. Burrows can be created out of PVC piping ans should be placed in multiple parts of the enclosure at varying temperatures.

Heat and Humidity

Being a native to our desert climate, the Desert Iguana likes it hot. During the active season, the “warm” end of the enclosure should be kept between 110 degrees and 120 degrees, with the cool side about 75 degrees (see lighting below). As desert iguanas prefer to create the burrow at the base of creosote bushes, creating artificial burrows at the base of vegetation will simulate the natural environment. A “moist” burrow with an ambient humidity between 35-45% should be created in a warm side of the enclosure.

During the inactive seasons (between September and March), the temperature should be gradually decreased over several weeks until the ambient temperature is between 50 degrees and 55 degrees. By this time the area should also be kept dim or dark to allow hibernation.

Growing plants of the species listed above not only provide food, but humidity. Unlike green iguanas, the humidity level does not need to be high, and if housed outdoors will not be. Watering the plants will provide necessary humidity. If housed indoors, humidity shold be between 15-25% with a shallow water dish provided.

Lighting

(active season only, March through October)

Fluorescent lamp (UV source):  Appropriate lamps are Repti-sun 5.0 (ZooMed), ReptiGlo 5.0 or 8.0 (Exoterra), or ReptaSun 5.0 (Fluker). The lamp should be within 18 inches of the iguana’s body, with no glass or plastic between the iguana and light.  This light should be on during typical desert daytime hours during the active season (12-14 hours per day).

Incandescent lamp (for basking): Light bulb wattage should be adequate to provide a basking temperature of 110-120 degrees F.  This temperature should be measured with a thermometer placed directly at the basking site.

Spiny-tailed Iguana(ctenosaura sp.)  

The spiny-tailed iguana is native to Mexico and Central America. Ranging in size from 5 inches to well over 3 feet, the ctenosaura genus has 15 recognized species and 2 unrecognized. Spiny-tailed iguanas are omnivores and should be fed the same diet as the Desert Iguana. Greens from the Green Iguana diet can be substituted during winter months.

Heat and Lighting requirements are similar to the Green Iguana in keeping with the sub-tropical to tropical natural environments while humidity requirements are much lower. Provide your Spiny-tailed iguana with fresh water daily in a bowl shallow enough to prevent drowning. The water bowl and growing plants in the enclosure will provide adequate humidity.

Desert Topsoil is again the recommended substrate, especially if you own the Sonoran Spiny-Tailed Iguana (ctensaura hemilopha).

Chuckwallas(sauromalus sp.)  

Of the five species of chuckwalla, two are internationally protected (one can be seen on display at the Arizona-Sonora Desert museum, the San Esteban Chuckwalla). This gentle species is native to the rocky areas of the deserts of the American Southwest and Northern Mexico. Chuckwallas are diurnal and spend a large portion of their days basking on rocks. Primarily herbivores they should be fed from the plants of the Desert Iguana diet.

It is preferable to house Chuckwallas outside to provide natural lighting and substrate. If housed indoors refer to the Desert Iguana “Heat and Lighting”. The only change to this is to lower the “warm” end to about 100 degrees. As with Desert iguanas, Chuckwallas hibernate, beginning about early September and emerging about late February.

Desert Topsoil is again the recommended substrate for indoor enclosures.

© Sonora Veterinary Group, 2011  Free for distribution with proper citation.