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| FAQ - Chameleons: of the family Chamaeleoninae |
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Diet Veiled chameleons are omnivorous reptiles; all other
chameleons are insectivorous. The diet for all chameleons should include the animal items listed below. Veiled chameleons require both plant and insect
items.
Animal Items* Isopods (pill bugs) Waxworms Moths Beetles Grasshoppers Grubs Pinky Mice Crickets & Mealworms may be fed, but require
gut-loading 2 days prior to feeding. *Never offer scorpions, fireflies or lightning bugs. Plant Items: For veiled chameleons only. The plants listed are appropriate when a mixture of 3 or more types is used in each meal
When feeding live insects only provide as many insects as the animal can eat in a few hours. Vitamin supplements are unnecessary, and in fact are often harmful. Clean drinking water must be provided at all times. Veiled chameleons will often drink from a shallow water bowl if an air stone (for fish aquariums) is used to roil the water and will benefit from occasional misting of the leaves in the cage. All other chameleons will require a constant drip of water on leaves that are easily accessible. Temperature and
Lighting Daytime ambient temperature (everywhere in
the enclosure) for most chameleons should be maintained around 78-84 degrees F. Nighttime ambient temperature should be maintained at 72-78 degrees F.
One exception is the Jackson’s chameleon which should be maintained at 68-74 degrees F during the day and room temperature at night. Chameleons require a good source of UVB light
for 10-12 hours every day. Fluorescent lamps with a strong UVB output, such as Repti-sun 8.0 (ZooMed) or ReptiGlo 8.0 (Exoterra) are appropriate.
A mercury vapor lamp, such as Power Sun by ZooMed or Mega Ray at www.reptileUV.com provides both heat and UVB. The bulb should be within 18 inches
of the animal's body, with no glass or plastic between them. An incandescent spot bulb should be shined in one part of the cage (6-8 hours per day) to
create a warmer area for the chameleon to bask in. Housing
When choosing a type of cage to house the chameleon in,
it is best not to choose a glass enclosure. Chameleons can get their tongues stuck on the glass which can result in injury. Mesh or screen cages usually
prevent this problem.
Recommended
cage substrates include desert topsoil, coarse gravel, and folded paper.
The majority of intestinal impactions occur due to sand (including
Calci-Sand), crushed walnut shell, or other substrates composed of small,
equal-sized particles and therefore these are not recommended.
Indoor-outdoor carpeting is also not recommended due to the
possibility of carpet threads constricting toes or being ingested. All chameleons need plenty of hiding places and branches for climbing. Live plants, such as pothos and ficus, or artificial plants should be used. Live plants are preferred as they increase the ambient humidity in the enclosure. Be sure to use a fertilizer and pesticide free soil for the plants. Gut-Loading Gut-loading is the
practice of feeding insects a diet high in calcium, protein, and other
nutrients prior to offering the insects to reptiles and amphibians.
Domestic crickets and meal worms should be fed a diet consisting of
four parts chicken or turkey starter mash and one part calcium carbonate
for two or three days before offering the crickets to your pet. Also,
offer the crickets water in a shallow dish or wet sponge.
Gut-loading beyond 2-3 days is not beneficial, and can actually
decrease the life expectancy of the insects. © Sonora Veterinary Group, 2011 Free for distribution with proper citation. Images courtesy of listed individuals. |
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